How the hairstyles changed during the Victorian era

1830-1840: If comparing to the previous times, the topknot became higher and less wide, consisting of flat loops and bows of hair, sometimes intertwined with braids, pearls, leaves and flowers, etc. The hair was still brushed out flat and sleek and was almost invariably parted in the centre.The decorative curl moved firmly tpo the sides, usually covered part or all the ear, and became almost as prominent as the topknot itself. In 18434, a note from Paris proclaimed that two plaits upon the temples were still fashionable.

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    This time the hairstyles were actually on their way down. The topknot shrank often to a mere knot, a twist, or a small bow, and moved to the back of the head. The enormous clusters of side curls drooped and became long spiral curls or braids or occasionally disapeared entirely. the parting took on various forms-a centre parting front to crown; a centre parting for the front hair only forming bandeaux; a parting on either side, the top being brushed straight back; or two short diagonal parting in a V-shape. The body of the hair was still flat and sleek, the softening effect coming from the side curls.  

    By the end of the decade the hairstyles had undergone an almost complete transformation and retained very few reminders of those of early thirties.

1840-1850:  The general style established at the end of the previous decade continued with minor modifications. The hair was still sleek and flat on top with the same variety of partings.The bun was sometimes as high as the crown but usually lower. The side hair was still important, consisting usually of one or more spiral curls, especially for evening wear; but frequently the curls became braids, which were dressed in curious long loops, exposing the ears. Later, the braids, when used, were more likely to be coiled in front of the ear. During the course of the decade, side curls or braids became less and less important, though they were still worn in the evening; and the bands of hair were simply brought down over the ears and carried to the back. Sometimes the top of the ear was allowed to show. The hair was parted front to back in the centre. Flowers, feathers, lace, cut-.out cloth leaves, artificial grapes, etc., were worn in the hair, especially in the evening.  

1850-1860: Long hair in this era was greatly admired and envied, and hair was beginning to attract attention for its ornamental value off the head as well as on. A glance at plates will show the general trend of the hair during this decade. Braids continued in popularity. Those who wished to create a sensation, have reintroduced the practice of wearing powder in the hair. Others, carrying the matter still further, have made this fashion more costly by adopting gold and silver hair powder: gold for brunettes and silver for Italian blondes.

    In 1856 Godey's gave an enlightening account of the fashion of the period: "There is no one given stule- as the once invariable French twist-or the all-pervading plaits. No fashionable woman makes an elaborate hair-dressing for the morning the different engagement of the day demanding a use of the bonnet would interfere with it... A fashionable woman puts up her hair as simply as possibly in the morning- a twist or a knot behind and plain bandeaux in front, unless her hair curls naturally. This is the most suitable style hor home unless it is dressed for dinner or evening. Ribbons are the only suitable decorations...."

     " For the simple home wear there are several favourite styles. The braid passing through the bandeaux or front hair and crossing the top of the head, as the past season, leaves a space behind, which lately become accostomed to see filled by a twist or a knot...."

    "For evening or dinner parties ,the styles of cache peigne are varied and elegant. Some are entirely of flowers- for young married ladies a mixture of flowers and blonde or flowers,blonde and ribbon. This style of headdress is the most suitable for a young girl whose hair is in that uncomfortable state passing... to a woman's graceful length or where the hair is just growing out after sickness or baldness."

    In 1859 the very populat English book on etuquette, entitled The Habits of Good Society, declared that a lady's hair should, in ordinary life, be dressed twice a day, even if she does not vary the mode. To keep it col and glossy, it required being completely taken down in the middle of the day, or in the evening according to the dinner.hours. The taste in dressing it in the morning should be simple, without pins, bows, or any auxiliary to the best ornament of nature.

    By the end of the decade the supplying of artificial hair had become a major industry.

1860-1870:  This was the decade pf chignon and, with it, enormous quantities of false hair. At first the emphasis was primarly to the back and very low, usually with no important detailin front of the ears; but soon the false hair spread like a cancer in all directions until often a lady wore so manu different hair pieces that her own hair was completely obscured.The hair from France and Italy was the most desirable. Also women started to dye their hair into dark brown or black as it was the most prefered colour. Little girls wore their hair in short frizzed curls. Powdering the hair was reported to be all the range in fashionable circles, with gold and silver powder, being considered particularly elegant. Later, an insane fashion has run upon golden and other light tints for ladies' hair. Brunettes would seem to have gone out of vogue, and blondes to have comein.

    The following is a series of reports from The Lady's Friend for 1869:

February: "In the matter of the hair dressing everybody seems to adopt her own peculiar style, but the hair is certainly not drown so much away from the nape of the neck. Curls are more in favour than ever. One belle wore the hair off from the face in front, with a mass of curls falling from the top of the head onto the shoulders. The puff of hair which seems now inevitable accompagniment of all kinds of chignons, is brought further forward than it used to be, and bandeaux of velvet and hair are often worn infront of it with gold or pearl, silver or diamond ornaments in rhe centre. Birds, bees, and butterflies are a great deal worn, and sprays of flowers or leaves appear invariably to fall onto the shoulders. The only exception admitted this winter by the elite to the tortoise-shell comb, is the comb enriched with real jewels and precious stones."

March: "The hair is worn higher than ever...For ball coiffures the ornaments are very few. Ladies wear such a profusion of curls and frizettes that the head would really become overloaded if flowers, feathers, or any other sort of trimming were added to them. A tiny jewelled coronet or a strong of pearls, one simple flower or white plume, is all that really looks well."

April: "Diadems are in great vogue. Who does not like to adorn herself just like an empress, queen, or princess? Diadem combs fastens all the hair brushes upwards from the forehead, leaving the temples free."

May: Chignons are to be abolished by the select world of Paris, and ladies who would be thought "good form"are to endeavor to dress their hair themselves or to look as if they dressed it: for "when the work of a professional is manifeston the head, prestige ceases". In the daytime, the hair, simply braided, will be confined within the meshes of a net and far from assuming a pyramidal shape, will rather fall loose. For the evenoing it will be sufficient to place a simple wreath upon the head, a garland of roses, sweet briar, or clematis. The artificial hair must return to its proper place, but always concealed and not, as it has too long been, the principal, not to say the whole ornament of the head."

1870-1880: The few who had abundant hair of their own wore it in thick plaits, turned up and fastened at the top of the head, the arrangement completed with a bow of ribbon. The fashion still required the appearence of plenty, the drooping chignons which are formed of large torsades or loose twists of hair. The pad is a large but soft fluffy thing, composed of a number of long, sausage-like separate pieces, only held togetherat the top. This is fastened under back hair, which is divided in as many braids as there are separate pieces. Each of these pieces must be entirely covered with trhe real hair, after which the torsades or plaits are made, and of an enormous size they are when done up in that way. In front the hair is dressed higher than ever, and towers high above the forehead. Few ornaments are worn in the coiffure: one diamond star or one flower is often the only ornaments.

    In July the magazine reported that the hair is worn straight down the back in waved ripples and confined in a net, the front hair arranged in small bandeaux and brushed back from the temples. Another mode is to wear long long braids of hair flat to the head, falling down the back and in a net. The year 1872 finds wide ribbobs fashionable. Gray hair has come to be so much admired that it is displayed rather than concealed. Consequently hair dyes and false fronts are out of fashion. A great many ornamental pins are now worn in the plaits of hair, which are fashionable for evening toilets.

    The July styles show more simplicity.The bandeaux were completely raisedoff the forehead and temples and puffed out, but to soften the curve of these bandeaux the hair is waved in a particular way; just on the top a few curls play over the brow but without covering covering it. The chignon is composed of the thick drooping loops of hair called marteaux and of one large plait; it is placed much higher than was the case in the winter and fastened with handsome tortoise-shell comb with elaborate openwork beading.

    The September report, striking a more permissive note, tells the reader that the style of hair-dressing is, like everything else, left very much to personal taste, but there is a tendency to a less drooping style of coiffure. The hair is raised off neck, and the plaits, or large coques, placed much higher and fastened with a tortoise-shell comb.

    Although the chignon was officially dead.But the passing of chignon did not mean the false hair.

1880-1890: Masses of hair continued to be worn throughout the eighties, occasionally drooping low on the neck but more often concentrated on the top and the back of the head, being held in place with large pins or decorative combs. The hair was softer around the face than it had been. The side hair was usually gently waved, and during the early part of the decade a fringe across the forehead was fashionable. A slightly fluffy effect was the result. Frequently the front hair was false as well as the torsades, puffs, rolls, and curls. Small clusters of fòluffy curls could be bought and stuck n wherever there happened to be an empty space. Larger pieces conveniently attached to combs could also be had. Late in the decade the styles were less fluffy and rose higher. The jeweled hairpin was in great demand.

       

        


Books: "Fashion in Haair(The First Five Thousand years)" by Richard Corson